Comprehensive Guide to Planning and Preparing Upland Native Meadows

For those interested in making a positive environmental impact while enjoying a low-maintenance and naturally beautiful landscape, establishing a native meadow is an excellent choice.

In this blog, we’ll explore how to assess your site, how to select the right seeds, how to prepare the site, and what obstacles to look out for on your journey.

Assessing Site Conditions for Native Meadow Planning

A thorough assessment of the site’s slope, deer pressure, sunlight, likelihood of human interaction and invasive species will help you to select the appropriate seed mix. Proper assessment of the site’s compaction, fertility, and pre-existing cover will ensure you make necessary adjustments prior to planting.

Slope

If the site’s slope is 3:1 (a 33-degree angle) or steeper, then the site needs extra stems and roots to stabilize it. This is accomplished with steep slope mixes that are applied at heavier rates than mixes designed for flatter areas. 

If a site is 3:1 or steeper, be sure that any final tracking of the site is perpendicular to the slope. This will help to hold the seed in place. Erosion control blanket or bonded fiber matrix must be used to provide temporary stabilization during establishment. 

Deer Pressure

If the landscape surrounding a meadow site shows signs of deer browsing, or if more than 5 deer are observed on any given evening, then the site should be planted with species that tolerate deer browsing.

Sunlight

Sites receiving half a day or more of sun may be planted with an upland meadow mix. Those receiving less than a half day of sun need partial shade tolerant mixes. 

Human Interaction

When there will be human interaction with a landscape it is important to choose mixes that do not have seeds that stick to clothing such as Tick-Trefoils (Desmodium spp) or Beggarticks (Bidens spp). In most cases it will be important to select a mix that does not produce a wall of vegetation that is taller than the people who will interact with that landscape.

Invasive Species

If your site is infested with Japanese stiltgrass and is flat, consider planting a wildflower mix that can be sprayed with broadleaf herbicide to control the stiltgrass. If your site is infested with persistent broadleaf annuals such as Japanese Hops, Mile-A-Minute, or Porcelain Berry, consider planting a grass mix that can be sprayed to control those weeds.

Soil

You’ll want to determine your soil’s structure and texture as well as its pH level.

Soil Compaction

How to Check: Soil compaction is most accurately assessed with a soil compaction meter. You can also assess it by pushing a piece of rebar or the flat tip of a tire iron into the soil. If it does not go deeper than 3″ you have compaction. Without remediation, compacted soil will produce a poor to non-existent stand. For highly compacted soils, consider broadcasting 1”-2″ of well-decomposed compost across the site, followed by rototilling the compost 6″ deep.

pH and Fertility

Soil pH affects nutrient availability as well as microbial activity. We recommend a pH level of 5.5-7.0. If your soil is outside of that range, you may amend it with lime or sulfur to bring it into that range or choose plants that tolerate the existing pH.

Appropriate levels of Phosphorus (P), Potassium, (K), and Magnesium (Mg) are necessary for a successful stand. If your soil has less than 15 ppm Phosphorus, 50 ppm of Potassium, or 60 ppm of Magnesium, it should be amended to reach those levels.

How to Check: Penn State’s College of Agricultural Services offers soil fertility test kits and analyses for a nominal fee.

Weeds and Organic Matter (Including Pre-Existing Cover)

Native species will not establish well in a site already vegetated with weeds or lawns, so this vegetation must be controlled prior to planting. Typical control strategies include repeated tilling, smothering with black plastic, or herbicides, which we’ll discuss later. 

Good seed to soil contact is essential for successful meadow establishment. Plants will not become successfully established if planted on a layer of mulch or wood chips. If a site has a layer of wood chips or other undecomposed organic matter, the microorganisms that break down that material will be competing with plants for the nitrogen that is essential for their growth.

Potential for Drought

This is a factor you won’t be able to influence much, so it’s important to get an accurate read on it so you can choose plants that will thrive under your specific conditions.

Seeds will not grow without water. If you’re planting in a drought-prone area, we recommend planting between late October, when soil temperatures are less than 55° F at 3″ deep, and spring, when forsythia or redbud are in full bloom.

By getting a strong grasp on the initial conditions of your site, you’ll be able to set a strong foundation for a thriving native plant meadow.

Choosing the Right Seed Mix for Your Native Meadow

At Ernst Seeds, we’ve used our decades of experience to craft seed mixes that are perfect for any condition. Here are a few examples that might suit your goals and the needs of your site:

For Disturbed Sites and Steep Slopes

Places like landfills, surface mines, road cuts, and construction sites are characterized by lower quality soil and a predisposition for runoff and erosion. 

Mixes ideal for these locations will establish quickly and help minimize soil erosion with strong, fibrous roots.

• Non-Native Ernst Best Strip Mine & Gas Production Mix
• Ernst Native Biomass Mix for Strip Mines & Gas Production Sites
• Quick Erosion Control Cover Mix
• Native Steep Slope Mix w/Annual Ryegrass

For Partially Shaded Sites

These mixes contain native species that are well adapted to moderate shade and the protective areas around trees and shrubs:

• Partially Shaded Area Roadside Mix
• Right-of-Way Non-Native Woods Mix
• Right-of-Way Native Woods Mix w/Annual Ryegrass

For Upland (Dry) Sites

These are typical upland sites characterized by being dry most of the year. The topsoil may be thin and subject to drought. Seed mixes suited to these environments favor well-drained soils with sandy clay, sandy loam, loam, or shale:

• Showy Northeast Native Wildflower & Grass Mix
• Deer Resistant Meadow Mix
• Mesic to Dry Native Pollinator Mix
• Native Upland Wildlife Forage & Cover Meadow Mix

With the right seed mix in hand, the next step will be to prepare your site for seeding.

Preparing Your Upland Site for Native Meadow Establishment

If your site is currently a lawn and has been sprayed with herbicides, wait a year to convert your lawn to a meadow. During that time do not apply any herbicides to your lawn. 

If your site is currently a crop field to which herbicides have been applied, review the labels for the herbicides that were applied in the past three years. If any have residues that persist into the window you are planting, plant the field to a crop whose weeds will be controlled with herbicides that do not have a residual period beyond the crop’s growing season. Your meadow planting may occur after your field has passed the time needed for all herbicide residues to break down.

Clearing Existing Vegetation

Prior to planting it is important to have a seed bed that is free from pre-existing vegetation. It is important to know that weeds such as Canada Thistle, Mugwort, and Johnsongrass can take more than a full growing season to control.

• Repeated Tilling: Disc harrow a site every other week for two or months. Longer times will be needed to kill spreading root systems called rhizomes. Harrowing will also stimulate the germination of some dormant weed seeds whose seedlings will be killed by subsequent tillage.
• Smothering: Cardboard or black plastic can be laid across tilled or untilled soil and anchored in the center and the edges. Use this strategy during a growing season when the intent is to plant in fall of the same year or spring the following year.
• Herbicides:  Use of an approved herbicide such as glyphosate (Roundup® or Rodeo®) according to the manufacturer’s recommended rates is a fast and common method for controlling existing vegetation.

For a successful planting, it is important to have a seed bed that is free from thatch, stubble, or debris. Prior to planting any of these should be removed.

Timing

Meadows may be planted in the fall, winter, or spring. This is the best time for planting because the seeds of native plants are adapted to the region, and are naturally dormant during the cold months. Planting should not occur when the ground is wet enough for rutting. 

With your site prepared, you can start seeding.

Seeding and Planting Techniques

When it comes to seeding, there are several methods to get the job done.

Drill Seeding

Drill seeding is a mechanical method that creates furrows in the soil and uniformly places seeds at the correct depth, making it ideal for efficiently planting large areas. 

It is used when precise seed placement and good seed-to-soil contact are needed, and can be adapted for different soil conditions and seed types.

Broadcasting

Seed may be broadcast by hand or using a broadcast seeder. A broadcast seeder is a device that has a hopper to hold the seed with a spinner mechanism below to spread the seed.

Broadcast seeding is used when a site is too small, steep, or wet to plant with a seed drill. To ensure uniform application of the seed it may be necessary to add a bulking agent such as a clay-based kitty litter or dry sawdust.

Hydroseeding

Hydroseeding is a method that sprays a mixture of water, seed, fertilizer, and hydro-mulch over an area using specialized equipment. It’s ideal for seeding meadows on challenging terrains like steep slopes or wet sites that are inaccessible to traditional methods. 

We recommend a two-pass system: the first pass applies 500 lbs/acre of hydromulch with all the seed to ensure seed-to-soil contact, and the second pass has the balance (1,000 lbs/acre) of the hydromulch.

Keep Your Meadow Healthy with Tips from Ernst Seeds

When you carefully plan and prepare your meadow site, you ensure a healthy and solid foundation for your meadow to grow on. It’s especially critical that you keep an eye out for weeds during the establishment period and perform regular maintenance in the subsequent growing seasons. Afterward, your native meadow will require little maintenance and be a source of aesthetic joy for years to come.

Remember that meadows are not no-maintenance landscapes, they are low-maintenance landscapes. During establishment, most native meadow mixes should be trimmed to half knee height any time vegetation reaches knee height. In subsequent years, 2/3rds or more of the meadow should be mowed close to the ground (1-2″) prior to onset of the new growing season. From the outset, the meadow should be monitored for problematic weeds and those weeds should be controlled by hand pulling, hoeing, or spot spraying. With this maintenance your meadow will be beautiful for many years.

Contact the experts at Ernst today and let us know about your next project.